Kabuki: I swear I actually had fun

This post is long overdue. I believe it was about three weeks ago now that I saw Kabuki. I tried to write a post about it immediately after but it ended up being as long and boring as the Kabuki was. For those who do not know what Kabuki is, you’re not alone. I have no idea what it is and I just watch three hours of it. Are two jokes in a row too much? Possibly, but, boy, this is a tough subject for me. Kabuki is definitely an acquired taste – even for the Japanese. When I told my host family I was going they laughed at me; then when we got there I’m pretty sure all of us college students were younger than the other audience members by at least 20 years.

I was able to have this experience because Nanza’s CJS program is awesome and organizes a lot of field trips throughout the semester. They really want their students not only to learn the Japanese language but to experience the culture as well.

Okay, so what I do know is that Kabuki is that it’s a type of theater where men play all the roles – which do include female characters. It’s distinguishing features are very heavy and dramatic makeup, live music performed on traditional instruments, and beautiful costumery. Oh, and a very distinct style of talking.

Which, it would be so easy to make fun of the way Kabuki is spoken. In fact, I did actively have to restrain myself from laughing during the (very serious) performance. However, objectively, it’s pretty impressive and also very interesting from a sociological perspective. In Kabuki, the actors speak in an oscillating way. They may start their sentence in a deep, gruff manner and end speaking in falsetto. I have to give credit to the actors because if I tried to speak with such a range my voice would crack like a boy going through puberty. Their voices sounded controlled even with these drastic pitch changes. Furthermore, the characters speaking like this include very strong males. From my western perspective, a strong male character should have a deep, commanding voice. So to hear someone who’s supposed to be intimidating speak in falsetto, was…unexpected.

I saw three shows, about an hour each, with an intermission between them of about a half hour each. The long intermissions aren’t just meant to give a break, but so that the patrons can eat dinner. In the lobby, bento boxes can be purchased and then brought back to your seat to be eaten. Which, as an avid theatergoer it was a little strange for me to see people eating full meals in their seats. It was also performed with the house lights on, which added a strange air of informality to a very formal performance style.

The reason I said I have no idea what Kabuki is, is because all three shows were distinctly different. The first was almost entirely motionless. The characters came on stage, took their seats, and then talked. There was some action, but I would estimate it made up, at most, a quarter of the runtime. The second show was mostly a dance, with a short comedic interlude that was an acted scene with different characters than the dancers, and then the two dancers returned to finish the show. The last was just like a play that one might expect to see in the west. They had sets and props that they interacted with. I should say that all three shows had beautiful sets, but for the first two, they were just the backdrops and not really interacted with.

And, for the abridged version, I think that’s about all I have to say. I made a lot of observations and could write quite a lot, but, it’s not the kind of compelling content that I would read, so I’m assuming you all feel the same. If I’m incorrect and there is a demand, I can provide the supply, but, I really hope to move on to recount more fun adventures I’ve had.

Typhoon Trami

A little over a week ago, Typhoon 24 (Typhoon Trami) hit Japan. It was the first typhoon to occur since I got here, and a slightly frightening experience. Partly due to my own – slightly embarrassing – ignorance, and because, well, it was an intense storm. Let’s break it down.

First, my ignorance. I was completely unaware that there is absolutely no difference between a hurricane and a typhoon except for the name. I think not understanding this made it more frightening. I’m from Massachusetts so I’ve experienced a couple hurricanes. They’re something I understand. Something that does not need to be blatantly feared. However I, like many other humans, can’t help but have an innate fear of the unknown. The fact that I thought a typhoon was something new made it something scary. I think if I knew it was just a category 2 or 3 hurricane that understanding would have helped the situation.

That being said, a typhoon/hurricane’s destructive potential should not be underestimated. I live with my host family south of Nagoya on the Chita Penninsula, about twenty minutes from Chubu Centrair International Airport (NGO). So, very close to the water. The typhoon was set to hit right at high tide, making the potential for severe flooding very real. Thankfully, my host father’s parents live nearby, but on a mountain – safe from any flooding. That evening we packed overnight bags and drove to their house. We stayed up watching the news and listening to the wind and rain outside. Around 11:30 pm, the sounds started to calm down, and we realized it may be passing. My host father returned home and reported to us that the roads were clear and safe, so we returned home as well.

I usually go to bed fairly early, around 9 or 10. I’m an early to bed – early to rise kind of person. So, when my alarm went off at 6 am the next day for school, suffice it to say I was a little disappointed that the typhoon didn’t cause a cancellation. However, the classic adage came true, I should have been careful what I wished for. Something felt off as soon as I began to walk up the hill to the train station. It was a lot less crowded than usual, in fact, no one but a couple of workers in orange safety vests was there. The station itself looked a little worse for wear, with rows upon rows of bikes knocked over. As I approached the turnstile an automated message played. It was all in Japanese but I was certain it said something like “we’re sorry for any inconvenience.” A quick google search in English confirmed that yes, many many JR trains were delayed or canceled due to the typhoon. Although school was still in session for the day, I would have to request an excused absence.

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I still went to campus after the trains started up again even though I had missed my class. I had some administrative things to take care of. I’m glad I’m not psychic because I would have shirked those responsibilities if I had known what the commute had in store. Although the trains were working again, the schedules were completely messed up. It usually takes me somewhere between an hour and fifteen minutes and an hour and a half for my commute. It took me over two and a half hours to get back home. I’m pretty sure I spent more time commuting then I did on campus that day.  Anyway, that was my experience with Typhoon 24 (Trami).

PRO TIPS:

  1. Typhoons are numbered in Japan. It’s really hard to find local news if you type the name given to Typhoons. If you’re ever in Japan trying to get the latest information, find out what it’s number is and search for that.
  2. In general, western news sources are going to be alarmist and not up to date. It might feel convenient to turn to these sources ー just a quick google search away! ー but it really isn’t. Where can you find information than as an English speaker in Japan? Japan Meteorological Agency! They have all sorts of information not just for typhoons, but all natural disasters one might want to be up to date on (and just daily weather patterns, too). It’s comprehensive and entirely in English. I really wish I had found this website earlier in the day when Typhoon 24 hit. But now I have it as a resource if need be in the future.